Upon arrival in Rawla Narlai I knew just one night would not be enough. Hidden away in the heart of Aravalli Hills the hotel once was a hunting lodge for the Jodhpur’s Royal family. It is still a historic part of this small traditional town which is popular with Hindu pilgrims.
The hotel lies in the shadow of Elephant Hill, a massive granite monolith. It’s worth climbing the 700 steps to the top for a sunrise panorama over lakes, fields and forests that were once a private hunting reserve for the Maharajahs of Jodhpur.
The meticulously restored 17th-century royal retreat is one of Rajasthan’s best-loved heritage hotels and is just gorgeous. Set in a particularly scenic part of the Aravalli Hills, it is a serene escape from India’s bustling tourist trail and is a great base from which to enjoy walking, riding and leopard safaris.
There are 32 rooms set around a series of courtyards bright with flowers. A magnificent pool is hidden in a walled garden. Evening drinks are served in the lamplit entrance court where you can also dine under the stars. The vintage rooms showcase individual ornate frescoes and archways while the modern wing is awash with marble and fine filigrees in local designs. All the rooms are furnished with the owners’ collection of antiques.
A real treat is the dinner at the hotel’s stepwell. Stepwells are open-air below-ground reservoirs. Here was a spectacular night time setting of hundreds of glowing candles lining the many tiers of steps that led down into the well. The romantic dinners commence with courtyard cocktails and stories from the local historian, before an ox-cart ride to the dinner setting. The meal itself involves seemingly endless courses of local specialties, served as local musicians play folk songs.
After my early morning walk up to Elephant Rock to take in the spectacular views, it was time to visit the locals. All of the staff at the hotel are from the village and are proud to be our guides through their village where we were able to share a brief insight into their lives.
Sleepy yet spectacular, Narlai village is located on a back-country road between Udaipur and Jodhpur.
