Varanasi is one of the most fascinating places on earth. The city’s special reputation for intimate rituals of life and death that take place in public may not be for the faint-hearted but the intense sights, smells and sounds of the so-called City of Light has made it a favourite cultural stop in India with surprises that abound around every corner.
It is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities and holds a special place in Hinduism. Pilgrims flock to the ghats lining the Ganges to wash away their sins in the sacred waters or to cremate their loved ones. It is an unforgettable spectacle walking the ghats and alleyways or watching the sunrise from a boat. Along the city’s winding streets are some 2,000 temples, including Kashi Vishwanath (Golden Temple) dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva.
Varanasi is a spiritual city for Hindus to go to pray, wash away their sins and honour their dead on the banks of the Ganges. Dying in Varanasi is seen as auspicious. The Ganges in Varanasi is believed to have the power for pilgrims to attain salvation and freedom from the cycle of birth and re-birth.
Just after sunset every evening the Ganga Aarti is performed at the river. Thousands of pilgrims, locals and some tourists gather at Dashashwamedh Ghat to watch a pooja (prayer) where Hindu priests lead a ceremony of fire, chanting and singing praising the river Ganges and Lord Shiva.
I stayed at the beautiful Brijrama Palace which is conveniently perched on the riverside ghats. The palace dates back to 1812 and is one of the oldest landmarks of the city. The three storeyed property is accessed by its historical elevator installed in the palace turret in 1918 making it the oldest in India.
No trip to Varanasi is complete without a visit to the Blue Lassi shop. This tiny hole in the wall yoghurt shop with a big and well-deserved reputation has been serving up the freshest, creamiest, fruit-filled lassis for over seventy years. They still crush and macerate fruit by hand with a big wooden stick in a steel jug.
Sarnath, located on the outskirts of Varanasi is where Buddha is said to have delivered his first sermon after achieving enlightenment. It is here that he preached his first five disciples on the four truths and who then carried his message to the rest of India. Sarnath is one of the four key sites on the Buddhist circuit and attracts followers from around the world.
Sacred, soulful and spiritual Varanasi will reveal countless sights and insights that will remain with you long after you leave – I promise.
