One of the highlights on my last trip to amazing India was an overnight stay at stunning Samode Palace. This 16th-century palace nestled in the ancient Aravalli hills has striking wall murals, atmospheric rooms, an infinity pool, and a great wine cellar. It is an hour outside Jaipur and run by the same family that lorded over 45 surrounding villages in princely times.
The hotel is in Samode village, accessible through the traditional arched gateway. Inside is a narrow cobblestone street that winds its way to the palace, offering picturesque glimpses of village life on both sides. From women making lac bangles, gemstones being polished, turbaned villagers entering temples, children playing on the street, to the odd pig sniffing the earth.
This is a bonafide castle or palace, accessible through a winding fort wall. The Durbar Hall where erstwhile kings gave audiences to their subjects is painted with blue and red wall murals that are both impressive and for some, over the top. Then again, India is a more-is-more, not a less-is-more culture. Paintings of Hindu gods adorn corridors. Featuring turrets, arches, latticework windows and trellises, this is your typical Rajasthani palace.
The two swimming pools offer views of the hills with the very occasional leopard sighting. A compact gymnasium has weights, a treadmill, a rowing machine and a cycle. Most guests simply walk up and down the hills for exercise. Nature lovers can go on birdwatching walks with the resident naturalist.
Trips to a local farm is also arranged and ought to be experienced. It is delightful to see fresh spinach and fragrant Indian pink roses blooming in the morning sun. Camel safaris are also available.
Largely extended in the 19th century, this magnificent palace is a gloriously grand hotel decorated in no-holds-barred Rajput splendour, with a great courtyard swimming pool plus an infinity pool. The suites are particularly atmospheric.
These heritage structures were built by the Maha Rawal and Maha Saheb of Jaipur and Amber. All monuments hold rich history of several hundred years and showcase the fusion of Mughal and Rajasthani art.
Exclusive and discreet, Samode Palace has been host to royalty, celebrities, artists and the discerning traveller. Awaken to the quiet dawn or have a cocktail on the terrace garden to the accompaniment of folk musicians. Run your fingers across the intricate story of an ancient mural on an uneven wall. Emerge from a gentle healing massage at the spa, or perhaps just sink into the lavish bed in your room. Samode Palace will weaves its magic on you.
